The New Power Dynamic Between Influencers and Brands

For more than a decade, the relationship between fashion brands and influencers worked like an unspoken pact: influencers promoted, brands approved, and everyone pretended it was all organic. Influencers tip-toed. Brands gate-kept. And the entire industry ran on polite silence, immaculate gifting, and plenty of untagged sample sale hauls.

But that era is cracking.

Neelam Ahooja’s now-viral “we need to break up” open letter to The Row wasn’t just a creator venting. It was a smoking flare fired straight into the luxury ecosystem — a signal that the balance of power has fundamentally shifted. And brands that fail to recognise it are about to learn that creators no longer need permission to speak. They have their audiences. They have their platforms. And increasingly, they have nothing to lose.

Images: Neelam Ahooja's open letter and herself

How We Got Here: A Decade of Polite Distance

Historically, luxury brands held influencers at arm’s length. That elegant-but-frosty arm's length reserved for guest lists, show seating, and occasionally returning a sample with the plastic still on.

Influencers, meanwhile, had one major revenue source: brand deals. And when your livelihood depends on access, good behaviour becomes a job requirement. So even the most loyal creators (like Ahooja, whose admiration for The Row basically built a micro-economy) accepted the occasional cold shoulder as part of the game.

But the game has evolved.

The Creator Economy Grew Up And Diversified

Today’s creators aren’t relying on a handful of sponsored posts to pay their rent.

They have:

• Subscription revenue (Substack, Patreon, Geneva)

• Affiliate income (exploding, brand-independent, and often more lucrative)

• Their own products (beauty lines, clothing capsules, apps, workshops)

• Direct support from communities (the true power source)

Influencers realised something big: A loyal audience is worth more than a polite relationship with a PR manager. And audiences reward honesty, especially the kind that peeks behind the velvet curtain of luxury marketing.

This is why calling out a brand’s quality issues, sizing rollbacks, or elitist behaviour has suddenly become… content. Valuable content. Trust-building content. Viral content.

When Samyra Miller criticises Athleta or Wisdom Kaye calls out Miu Miu after an $18K disappointment, their audiences cheer. They don’t see “complaints.” They see integrity.

The Era of ‘The Dupe’ Has Democratized Taste And Undermined Brand Immunity

Luxury brands used to be untouchable. Now? Not so much.

On TikTok:

• High prices feel out of place in a shaky economy.

• Quality slip-ups go viral.

• Dupes are no longer taboo, they're practically a hobby.

• Communities rally behind the creator who says, “Actually, this isn’t worth the $3,800.”

If a brand crosses a consumer’s favourite creator, the audience doesn’t shrug, they mobilise. And for the first time, creators aren’t afraid of losing access. They’re afraid of losing trust.

This Isn't a Breakup

Despite rising tensions, the influencer–brand relationship isn’t headed for divorce.

Creators still love fashion month invitations, showroom pulls, gifting, travel content and beautiful experiences that elevate their storytelling. And brands still rely heavily on creators to build relevance, reach new audiences, spark desire, humanise a product and validate trends.

What’s changing is the terms of engagement.

Creators don’t want transactional partnerships built on fear. They want mutual respect, transparency, and collaboration. They want to be recognised for the cultural value they bring, not treated as replaceable content machines.

Meanwhile, brands need to understand that in 2026 and beyond, trust cannot be purchased. It has to be earned.

What This Means for Brands in 2026

1. You Can’t Control the Narrative Anymore

Trying to muzzle creators (whether through subtle pressure or withheld access) only fuels the fire. Open dialogue wins.

2. Creator Loyalty Is Built, Not Bought

Influencers are more invested in their communities than in your campaign budget. Treat them like partners, not pipelines.

3. Authenticity Beats Exclusivity

Gatekeeping sample sales, affiliate links, or behind-the-scenes information feels outdated. Enable, don’t restrict.

4. Your Audience Will Side With the Influencer

They have faces, personalities, and stories. You have a logo. Advantage: creator.

5. It's Cheaper and More Effective to Earn Love Than Force It

Ahooja gave The Row a decade of free, genuine, community-building advocacy. Losing that kind of support is a loss that money can't fix.

If you need help navigating this new creator era (building influencer partnerships rooted in trust, designing future-proof brand strategies, or reshaping your communication model for 2026 and beyond) we're here to guide!